Cooking with Ingredients for Skin Health

27 October 2015
Categories: Blog

Safe – Easy – Effective – Performance Driven

by Freda Mills, CIDESCO diplomat,

Director of Education (2007-2015) for Skin for Life

I was reading a post in a chatroom, where an esthetician asked for other esthetic opinions regarding a product she posted with ingredients.

Do you ever ask why no one can make Dove soap, but Dove? Have you ever thought about it? Why can’t people make Image, Murad, Obagi, and Skin for Life pure science, or even Oil of Olay?

What would your answer be? Formulation? Patent ingredients? What about formulation, if it was just reading a recipe why can’t we all make the same stuff?

Most lines use Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Oligopeptides, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, so why is it hard? Is Jan Marini that different than Murad or IS Clinical that different from Skin Ceuticals or Glo Minerals?

So why would an esthetician’s post read, “Is this product any good?” You can look up any ingredient and get the good, bad, and the ugly. What are the facts, well let’s think it through shall we?

A striving company researches a laboratory, this company reviews their quality standards, good manufacturing standards, their relationship with FDA, have they ever been penalized regarding poor quality standards, liabilities from making claims of structural change without registering a product as a drug, i.e. stem cells, growing collagen, anti-ageing, curing acne. All important points, when a striving company acquires the services of a laboratory.

chemistry_set_depositphotos_35247951_pd_4cr_smA laboratory will ask what are you trying to accomplish, well I can only speak for Skin for Life. We manufacture performance equipment and we wanted a performance skin care. We wanted unique, we did not want to use BPO or strong stripping agents like cosmetic acid peels. We wanted to rebuild after using performance equipment, where the skin would bounce back and the surface of the skin would appear youthful, vibrant, and resilient. We wanted “building skin results”.  Let’s face it, you give the skin building blocks and it will know what to do. It has been doing it ever since you were born (Humoral Immunity Responses, Cell Meditated Responses, Active Immunity, Passive Immunity, Catabolism, Anabolism). Basically we are trying to create a Skin Fortress, where every entity speaks to each other and gets the job done. The end result is “Quality Skin Health”. Don’t you want a long term quality life? Doesn’t your skin deserve the same chance?

A laboratory will generally use various properties of vehicles, ph. normalizers, thickeners, emulsifiers, various actives (natural or synthetic components), preservatives, and esoteric elements. Sounds unattractive doesn’t it? However, I can only speak for Skin for Life. Our duty is to the health of skin and to our customers that are seeking a company that is interactive with their laboratory, which encourages us to stay involved in the process for product perfection. Our laboratory uses validated ingredients which are sourced all over the world. It is how truly interconnected you want to be for a positive performance end result. Skin for Life is very progressive with staying in communication with what we know is our customers lifeline to their results for providing skin health.

Did you mull over why we cannot make Dove soap? Well the primary answer is simply “concentrations”. It is called a “Range of Code” Quantitative Formulas, where you will be able to provide information to the end user without giving away proprietary formula concentrations.

If you look at the first two ingredients, generally speaking the concentration is 30% – 100%, so why is it you never see “Hyaluronic Acid in the first two?” even though a skin care company will claim it to be 100%, funny how that works. I personally work very closely with our laboratory and have learned a lot in the past six years. So when you read down the list of ingredients you will see concentrations decrease for various reasons, could be the interaction with other ingredients, pH is not stable as a whole for the end result and may present as an irritation, or depending on the vehicle for skin transportation. Concentrations change generally from 10% – 30%, then transition to 3% – 10%, then 1% – 3%, and .03% – 1%, then .01% – .03%, and finally < .01%. If we all knew exact concentrations then anyone would be able to have an easier chance to duplicate the formula. Let’s face it there are more than one Skin Care Company at one time or another that have worked for bigger fish and have lifted their formulas, however trade secrets with concentrations are usually very hard to obtain.

So, now after my thoughts with how laboratories work now can you answer the esthetician? I think you can.

My personal answer – I reviewed the ingredients and they are interesting, and yes a lot of the peptides are at the bottom which indicates their concentrations are not as high, however usually peptide concentrations are between 1% – 10% concentrations. It is up to you to ask three important questions:

  1. What is the pH of the product?
  2. What is it designed to do?
  3. Is it a multi – faceted product?

Remember do you want a selective few that will find the product beneficial, or do want World Skin Domination with giving every skin color, condition, and type a chance for “Quality Skin Health”.

Skin for Life hopes you found this information helpful. “Pass it On” to your friends and your professional esthetic community.

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